Pablo Picasso, one of the most iconic artists of the 20th century, was as much a cultural symbol as his art was revolutionary. Beyond his cubist masterpieces, Picasso became synonymous with a particular sartorial choice, the striped Breton shirt. This classic garment, with its timeless pattern, not only reflected the simplicity and elegance of French fashion but also embodied Picasso’s unique blend of artistry and personal flair.
The origins of the French striped shirt, known as the marinière, trace back to 1858 when it became standard issue for the French Navy. Designed for functionality, the navy-and-white stripes made sailors more visible in the sea. The shirt’s design was highly specific: it featured 21 white stripes and either 20 or 21 navy blue stripes, said to symbolise Napoleon’s victories. Crafted for durability, it was traditionally made from tightly knit wool or cotton to withstand harsh maritime conditions.
The marinière soon gained broader cultural significance, thanks to its utilitarian appeal and chic simplicity. In the early 20th century, French couturier Coco Chanel elevated it from naval uniform to high fashion by including it in her 1917 nautical-inspired collection. The striped shirt became a staple of French style, worn by both aristocrats and avant-garde artists alike.
Picasso, who spent much of his life in France, was captivated by the effortless elegance of the marinière. The striped shirt became a recurring feature of his wardrobe, and photographs often show him wearing it while working on his art or relaxing by the sea. It symbolised a connection to the working-class roots he admired and the Mediterranean lifestyle he loved. His choice was not mere happenstance; it reflected his personal philosophy of blending the practical with the artistic.
One of the brands credited with crafting Picasso’s beloved striped shirts is Le Minor, a historic French clothing company. Established in 1936 in Brittany, Le Minor specialised in producing authentic marinières and other maritime-inspired garments. Renowned for their meticulous craftsmanship, Le Minor’s shirts were made from high-quality cotton using traditional techniques, ensuring both comfort and longevity. The brand became a favourite of sailors and style-conscious individuals alike, including cultural icons such as Picasso.
Le Minor’s dedication to preserving French heritage aligns perfectly with the enduring appeal of the Breton shirt. Today, their marinières remain a quintessential symbol of French fashion, worn by those who appreciate its blend of practicality and sophistication.
For Picasso, the striped shirt transcended mere fashion—it was a canvas of identity. Its understated design harmonised with the boldness of his art, while its connection to French culture spoke to his adopted homeland. More than a wardrobe choice, the Breton shirt epitomised a way of life that valued authenticity, creativity, and simplicity.
Through Picasso’s embrace of the marinière, the striped shirt has become an enduring emblem of artistic nonchalance and timeless French style. Its legacy, much like the artist’s work, continues to inspire and captivate.