The French chore jacket, known as the bleu de travail or “worker’s blues,” stands as a symbol of practicality, durability, and understated style that transcends its working-class origins. Made famous by French workers throughout the 20th century, these blue jackets have become a cultural icon, inspiring generations of artists, designers, and fashion enthusiasts. Distinct in their simplicity, the jackets have evolved from workwear into high fashion and have gained global popularity for their unique combination of utility and charm. Key to this enduring legacy is the role of manufacturers like Le Laboureur, whose dedication to craftsmanship has ensured that the spirit of the original French chore jacket lives on.
The French chore jacket was first popularised in the late 1800s as industrialisation swept through France. With more people working in factories, railroads, and farms, there was a need for clothing that could withstand tough conditions while allowing freedom of movement. The chore jacket was the answer: crafted from sturdy cotton or moleskin, typically dyed a distinctive shade of indigo blue, it was built to last.
The jacket’s design is simple yet functional. It features a boxy shape with a buttoned front, a lapel collar, and, most importantly, large, accessible pockets for storing tools. This utilitarian approach to design meant that it was adaptable to many different trades. Over time, the chore jacket became more than just a piece of clothing—it became a symbol of the working-class values of resilience and honesty.
While several manufacturers played a part in popularising the chore jacket, few have upheld its legacy as enduringly as Le Laboureur. Founded in the 1950s in Burgundy, Le Laboureur (French for “the ploughman”) set itself apart by emphasising traditional craftsmanship and high-quality materials. Unlike other companies that turned to cheaper fabrics as demand increased, Le Laboureur has continued to use hardwearing cotton twill, wool or moleskin, keeping the jackets as authentic as possible.
Le Laboureur’s commitment to quality has earned it a loyal following, especially among those who value clothing with historical and cultural significance. Today, their chore jackets are still made in France, embodying the original spirit of the garment with each stitch and reinforcing its association with timeless craftsmanship. Le Laboureur has also preserved the traditional indigo hue, which fades beautifully over time, giving each jacket a unique, lived-in patina.
The chore jacket’s association with the working class and its connection to art and culture began in the early 20th century, as artists, writers, and thinkers sought to express solidarity with the working class. Famous French artists such as Henri Matisse, Pablo Picasso, and others often wore these blue jackets. Matisse, in particular, was known for his chore jackets, which became almost as recognisable as his art. The simplicity and utilitarian charm of the chore jacket aligned perfectly with Matisse’s artistic philosophy, which focused on honest, unadorned beauty.
For artists like Matisse, the chore jacket symbolised humility and a return to essential values. By wearing what was traditionally workers’ clothing, these artists blurred the lines between art and labour, challenging the distinction between the working class and the intellectual elite. This connection to artists elevated the chore jacket, adding an aura of creativity and rebellion to its reputation, which has only grown over the years.
The durability of the chore jacket is one of its defining characteristics, yet even the toughest jackets eventually wear down. In the spirit of practicality, French workers often repaired their jackets rather than discarding them, leading to a culture of patching that has since become a stylistic feature. Elbow patches are the most common, as the elbows experience the most wear, but patches might also appear on the shoulders, cuffs, and pockets.
These patches not only extended the life of the jacket but also gave each garment a unique character, with visible signs of use and care. This approach to maintenance became an early form of sustainable fashion, a practice that is increasingly celebrated today. Wearing a jacket with carefully sewn patches became a mark of pride, reflecting a commitment to utility and frugality. In some cases, the patching was done with contrasting fabrics, creating a visually appealing look that has since inspired modern fashion.
Today, the chore jacket has transcended its roots as workwear and become a staple in both men’s and women’s wardrobes worldwide. As vintage fashion and workwear-inspired styles have grown in popularity, designers from luxury labels to independent brands have reimagined the chore jacket in a variety of fabrics, colours, and cuts. Yet despite the modern interpretations, the classic indigo jacket made by Le Laboureur remains the standard-bearer, epitomising the authenticity and quality that first made it famous.
Celebrities, fashion influencers, and urbanites have embraced the chore jacket for its versatility and understated style. It pairs effortlessly with jeans, trousers, and even skirts, embodying a casual yet sophisticated look that resonates with the modern consumer’s taste for simplicity and heritage. The chore jacket’s return to fashion is also a response to the increasing demand for sustainable, long-lasting clothing, as people seek out pieces with history and substance.
The appeal of the French chore jacket lies not only in its functionality but also in its cultural resonance. It represents a bridge between the past and present, a garment that tells the story of French industrial workers, artists, and, ultimately, a nation’s sense of pride and resourcefulness. The chore jacket is a testament to the idea that good design is timeless, and that clothing, however utilitarian in purpose, can reflect identity, social values, and history.
In a world where fast fashion often dominates, the chore jacket stands as a reminder of the power of simplicity, durability, and authenticity. Whether crafted by iconic manufacturers like Le Laboureur or reimagined by modern designers, the chore jacket remains a versatile piece that can be worn, patched, and cherished for decades. This garment, with its deep blue colour and unmistakable silhouette, is more than just a jacket—it’s a living piece of French heritage that continues to captivate wearers around the globe.