As many of you will know, I really like Italy, but the allure of the Cote d’Azur is always difficult to resist, so in a break with tradition, I found myself taking a short break in Nice… and it was… nice.
I won’t go into too much detail about what I did day-to-day whilst on the coast (needless to say it was bread and pastry based mostly), but I thought a quick run down of the places and people that I met whilst there would be useful should you ever need to visit there and then send me an email saying ‘Iain, this place was awful / it was great – you should definitely be a travel agent.’
Hotel du Couvent – 1 Rue Honoré Ugo
It isn’t every day that you get to stay in a 17th century convent, but the Hotel du Couvent is just that. The hotel began renovations around 10 years ago and has fast become a place where you go to NOT be seen. It is right at the top of a fairly steep hill and if you didn’t know it was there, you would walk straight past it, even though it is a massive building… maybe I need to have my eyes checked.
Anyway, even if you aren’t staying in the hotel, make sure to book for something to eat or a drink. The bar area in the courtyard is a great place to relax and enjoy a cocktail or two. I recommend Negroni number 2 and enjoy the complimentary almonds and olives.
Babel Babel – 2 Cours Jacques Chirac
If you want a nice beer / cocktail / coffee, a great view and a generally wonderful time on the beach front in Nice then Babel Babel is for you. I could’ve sat there all day like, but I had to crack on and eat more pastries.
Lavomatique – 11 Rue du Pont Vieux
A wine bar based in an old washeteria doesn’t necessarily sound like the best place to have a drink, but I can recommend it… sadly they won’t wash your clothes anymore… so don’t take your dirty washing with you.
Sonic Import – 15 Av. du Marechal Foch
A tiny record shop that has stacks of wax every where. It looks a bit like a jumble sale, but if you need a new Charles Aznavour album or to get YG’s old album on vinyl, they will sort you out.
Trésors Publics – 18 Rue de la Préfecture
I am writing a whole article about this shop for Bother magazine, so I won’t go into too much detail about this place. However, EVERYTHING and I mean everything in the shop is made in France… even the hangers. The lovely staff can tell you a story about every item in the shop and they can even emboss your new favourite leather wallet with your name. I haven’t looked at my credit card statement yet…
Le Palais d’ Osier – 3 Rue de la Préfecture
Do you Do you need a woven bag that makes you look like a French farmer from the 1920s? I thought so. That is just what Le Palais d’Osier offer, so don’t mess about, go and have a look.
La Claque – 8 Rue du Pont Vieux
A coffee place that has SUPER modern machinery and you can sit outside on a bench drinking your coffee and then pop it down on a perfectly placed marble table, all whilst watching the world go by. Great for a pit-stop in the heart of the old town.
Creutz et Fils – 19 Rue de l’Hôtel des Postes
This shop looks like something that Wes Anderson would try to come up with, but never could. This is a boutique entirely dedicated to pens and paper. The lovely staff can repair any pen and obviously they sell everything from your basic Bic all the way through to a cheeky Mont Blanc. If you can nip in here and not buy a writing instrument, then you are a tougher cookie than me!
Bercolino – 8 Rue du Collet
When you advertise ‘THE BEST SANDWICH IN NICE’ on the side of your shop then it really needs to be… and, dear reader, it was very good. A jambon beurre with crisps and a drink when I needed it the most. The lady in the shop also thought I was French because my A-Level French was that good… maybe.
La Brioche Chaude – 50 Av. Jean Médecin
The lady in the shop was really nice to me and I ended up buying 4 beignets. This place is a bit of a local haunt and has seats outside for you to take your morning coffee and contemplate moving to France.
Matisse Museum – 164 Av. des Arènes de Cimiez
A bit of a trek up a hill, so don’t be tempted to walk it. Get a bus or a taxi and enjoy one of the best artist-themed galleries that I have ever been in, It is quiet, air conditioned and packed full of work by Matisse… obviously. It is set in the Garden of Arenas Cimiez, which is great for watching old folk play Pétanque and watching people bring out their dogs for an early evening stroll.
La Boulisterie – 4, rue Alexandre Mari
Want a shop that makes you want to quit your job and train to be a full time Pétanque player? Well this is it. Jam-packed full of things that you will probably never use, but you really want. Go and have a look, but make sure to try your best to speak in French, they’ll appreciate it.
The Beach
If all else fails, go and take a walk to the beach with a nice baguette, some wine and cheese and just enjoy the dazzling turquoise of the Mediterranean, with the sun on your face. Make sure to take a towel as it is a pebbled beach.