There are certain things that immediately make you think of the south of France. Sunshine, lavender, old stone buildings, little village squares, people drinking pastis at eleven in the morning and, of course, olives. And if you’re going to have olives, you might as well have some good ones.
These magnificent Greek-style black olives come from Olives Arnaud, a Provençal olive specialist with roots stretching back to 1959, and are presented under the wonderfully nostalgic Le Moulin de Daudet name. The name refers to the famous windmill at Fontvieille, a little village nestled amongst the limestone hills of the Alpilles in Provence. The mill became famous through the writings of Alphonse Daudet, whose Letters from My Windmill, published in 1869, helped immortalise this beautiful corner of southern France.
It’s a rather lovely connection, particularly when you look at the tin itself, which looks as though it hasn’t changed since your grandfather was a young man.
Prepared à la grecque, or Greek-style, the black olives are picked when ripe, cured with salt and allowed to develop their wonderfully rich, concentrated flavour. The result is a deliciously savoury olive with a slightly wrinkled skin, firm texture and plenty of Mediterranean character.
Seasoned with aromatic Provençal thyme and a little sunflower oil, they’re beautifully rich, pleasantly salty and absolutely packed with flavour.
Personally, I think these are best enjoyed with very little fuss. Tip a generous handful into a bowl, add some good cheese, a little charcuterie, perhaps some crusty bread and pour yourself something nice. They’re equally wonderful chopped into a tomato sauce, scattered across a pizza or served alongside grilled fish.
The tin comes in a magnificent shade of vintage red, decorated with the famous windmill of Fontvieille, it’s the sort of packaging that reminds you why everyday food used to look so beautiful. Almost too good to throw away, although I suspect the olives won’t last very long.
We’ve always had a soft spot for things that combine good food, a bit of history and wonderful design. These manage all three without really trying.
A proper taste of Provence, wrapped up in one of the handsome tins we’ve seen in ages.
All you need now is a bit of sunshine.
Contains stones.